The Golgari Guildhall was an arched subterranean cathedral surrounded by an immense circular maze of fungal hedgerows and overgrown, moss-encrusted ruins.

One of the most reputed cheeses from the Croatian Island of Pag, Paski sir is produced from a unique breed of small sheep, Paska Ovca - known for their intensely salty and limited milk output. Since Croatia doesn’t allow the production of animal rennet, Paski sir is made with the help of microbial rennet, thus making it a vegetarian cheese. Paski sir is a hard, aged cheese matured for at least 4 months, although manufacturers can offer it at various maturation periods from the minimum to 1.5 years. Beneath the thin rind, the pate varies from light to dark yellow depending on age.

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The texture alters from dry to flaky with the addition of pleasant graininess. It offers a characteristic flavour derived by rubbing the cheese with olive oil and ash, before it’s left for maturing. The flavour of younger wheels reveals quite a bit of saltiness along with a distinct savoury and aromatic herbal taste.

As the cheese matures, the savoury flavour and tanginess become stronger. Paški sir tastes best when served with fresh fruits such as grapes, prosciutto, wildflower honey or olive oil.

Contents • • • • • • • • • • • Understand [ ] Rustavi (რუსთავი) is a post-Soviet upcoming city of 100,000 people. With a new town square, a theatre in the process of being renovated, things are happening in this former industrial town. Only 25 minutes from, packed full of Soviet architecture, surrounded by abandoned factories, derelict Soviet-era parks, and dusty hills, it's something different. Get in [ ] There are loads of marshutkas going to Rustavi. As of 1 February 2012, a marshrutka ride between Tbilisi and Rustavi costs 1.30-1.50 GEL.

From Tbilisi, marshrutkas load at the Station Square (Sadguris moedani) metro station and also at the Politeknikuri metro station. They will all have a sign reading რუსთავი (Rustavi) in their windshield.

At Station Square, the Rustavi-bound marshrutkas can be found parked behind the cluster of stores directly in front of the metro entrance/exit. From Politeknikuri, the Rustavi-bound marshrutkas will be loading just outside the northeast exit of the metro. They will be waiting in the thin parking lot adjacent to the university. On their way to Rustavi, these marshrutkas will invariably take the main riverside thoroughfare (President Heydar Aliyev Embankment/Gorgasalis St).

If you see one coming, just wave at it. It will stop if there's room. The marshrutkas will run down the main street in Rustavi (Megobroba Street) upon entering town. You will know when you are in Rustavi when you see hundreds of 9-story, Soviet-style apartment buildings absolutely everywhere. Just yell out 'Gaacheret' for the driver to let you off.

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Anywhere is a good place to stop, really. Marshrutkas from Tbilisi to Rustavi begin their routes early in the morning and run until midnight (at least at the Politeknikuri and Station Square sites). Get around [ ] Rustavi is easily done by foot. In addition, Rustavi has many marshrutka routes covering the length and breadth of the city. A marshrutka ride has the flat rate of 50 tetri. The #1 and #14 marshrutkas run the main road connecting Old Rustavi and New Rustavi.